Mia Dona
- Cuisine Regional Italian
- 206 E 58th St, New York NY10022 40.760596 -73.966524
- (Btwn 2nd & 3rd Ave)
- 212-750-8170
DONATELLA’S MEATBALL WAGON ON E. 58TH STREET OUTSIDE MIA DONA
Donatella Arpaia re-opened Mia Dona in late 2009 as a tribute to the “cucina povera” of her mother's native Puglia. She is also the owner of Anthos in New York, the co-owner of Kefi in New York and EOS in Miami. Her first cookbook Donatella Cooks: Simple Food Made Glamorous was released on April 13, 2010.
Mamma Maria’s Meatballs, one of the most popular items on the menu at Mia Dona, are available al fresco on Donatella’s Meatball Wagon on the patio of this popular Pugliese trattoria. The first take-out outpost for the restaurateur, The hours of the wagon are 12pm to 2pm or when the freshly made meatballs run out.
Donatella’s Meatball Wagon offers Mamma Maria’s Meatballs in two variations –
as both a sandwich and in a dish. The meatballs - based on Donatella’s mother Maria’s handed down family recipe – are slow braised in ragu, smothered in Caviocavallo cheese with a burst of arugula and sandwiched between two squares of homemade potato-ricotta foccacia. A take-away dish of four meatballs is available. They are offered in regular or spicy version. The wagon will also offers sparkling Italian sodas.
“Our meatballs have become an obsession at Mia Dona,” says Arpaia. “But we realize not everyone has time to sit and eat – hence the Meatball Wagon idea was born. We think it’s a great way to cater to the lunch crowd on the run and a fun use of our outdoor space.”
We delighted in both versions of the meatballs, but Mia Dona ain’t just meatballs.Stroll inside and you find a real charmer.
Mia Dona, The Restaurant
On many counts, Mia Dona is the perfect neighborhood restaurant. A series of three long rooms creates the comfortable feel of a downtown hideaway with white washed walls, hung with eye-catching memorabilia and attractive framed prints, wainscoting, wood beamed ceilings, and chairs cloaked in white linen slip covers. Friendly service (overseen by Jesse McTiernan, previously of Union Square Cafe) by waiters wearing black T-shirts with the logo “You Need Balls To Be In This Business” and an inexpensive cocktail list (all mixed drinks are $11), but unfortunately omits the price. The wine list may offers plenty bottles under $50 and sufficient glasses from $9 to $13. We enjoyed a bottle of Feudi Rubrato Aglianico 2006 from Campania ($45). It was soft, with balanced fruit and a coca finish. At about a reasonable markup over retail price, the value was there.
Terrific bread and “Taralli,” a sort of pretzel and an Italian snack food, common all over the southern half of the Italian Peninsula, are set on each table with a small pot of a zesty spreadable cheese concoction. Lovely! In the antipasti department, look no further than those meatballs, but go easy. There is is very good food here and dining Italian fashion, meaning a pasta course, followed by entrees and dessert is our suggestion.
While most food critics used to say that main courses were the weakest area in Italian restaurants in America, we now find pasta most disappointing. At Mia Dona, they are fabulous. We sampled two and both were noteworthy. Fettuccia Con Sugo Di Arrosto Pomodoro E Stracciatella or fresh fettuccia with roasted tomato sauce & stracciatella was home-style cooking at its best: simple and bursting with flavor.For me, Zia Rosa’s Orecchiette Con Ragu Domenica, Brasciole E Ricotta Salata orecchiette with slow cooked Sunday ragu, brasciole & ricotta salata was even more spectacular. I love brasciole and rarely see it on a restaurant menu these days. Executive chef, Brenden Nevelle, knows the meaning of al dente and its is neither just a bit toothy, nor crude, meaning almost raw. Perfect pasta!
Entrees were no less well executed. We loved a special (actually an appetizer we asked to be re-directed), of seared scallops in cauliflower and cream puree. A classy dish, without pretention, it should become a standard. The signature Roasted Free Range Chicken with Farro, Pancetta, corn and Pecorino may read a bit busy, but the flavors were beautifully balanced and the chicken was delicate, moist and delicious. Not to be missed is Eggplant Parmigiana with Buffalo Mozzarella. Normally this Italian-American hodgepodge is thrown together, sloppy and the consummate example of what’s not to love about Italian food in America. But we’ve come a long way baby and Mia Donna’s rendition is a light, soufflé-like takeoff that separates each layer and coats the whole in a delicate tomato sauce, gently kissed by the cheese. Fava Bean Puree with Escarole and Crispy Potatoes with Lemon Zest, Garlic and Toasted Sea Salt are prima.
Pineapple Carpaccio was not only refreshing, but a positively elegant conclusion and the perfect foil to wonderful Zeppole di Nonna (Fried Dough with Lemon Cream filling and Sugar coating).
Mia Dona is the ideal neighborhood restaurant for today’s life style. If these prices hold, it’s also an outstanding best buy. We think you’ll like it.
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DONATELLA ARPAIA RELEASES FIRST COOKBOOK
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