La Silhouette (362 West 53rd Street, New York, NY 10019, 212-581-2400)
As you may have heard, Hell's Kitchen jewel-box of a French restaurant, La Silhouette, has brought on a new star in the kitchen. Matthew Tropeano, who has spent the last 6 years running the kitchen at La Grenouille. has been appointed the new executive chef by owners ( Le Bernardin alums) Sally Chironis and Tito Rahman..
The decor consists of several intimate rooms exploiting a clean, minimalist style with muted colors of gray with bursts of orange, There is a small, cunning bar as you enter and a rather formal space for quiet conversation, leading to a connecting room with banquettes and tables. Further back is a service bar and a more lively sunken main dining room where walls are hung with colorful striped art-work. Bare wood tables are set with mats and upstairs, there is a fourth space with an attached patio that would be perfect for private parties.
If you get the idea La Silhouette has the look/feel of an elegant bistro in Paris or London, you get the picture. Sally and Tito greet customers like old friends and orchestrate a level of caring service seldom seen in New York.
Olive Oil Poached Halibut with a crispy shallot crust, summer succotash and piquillo pepper nage
A recent dinner began with expertly made cocktails accompanied by an amuse buche of truffled potato-leek foam with parsley oil and pickled shitake mushrooms. There is a well selected wine list that is being updated to include more global selections and a range from $60 to $200. Currently, there are good selections in the $60 and under range and about 22 wines by the glass. We took it easy with a white Domaine du Pere Caboche Chateauneuf du Pape Blanc (40% Bourboulenc, 25% Clairette, 25% Grenache Blanc and 10% Rousanne/Picpoul). It was sturdy, well balanced and worked throughout a complex array of exquisitely prepared dishes. Although chef Tropeano offers an ever-changing tasting menu, we went the a la carte route.
We particularly admired such arousing appetizers as delicate VEAL SWEETBREADS with BUTTERNUT SQUASH AGNOLOTTI, PUMPKIN SEEDS and a touch of SAGE and a simple-but-precise play on POACHED FARM EGGS with "TRUFFLED" MASCARPONE POLENTA, OYSTER MUSHROOMS in a rich PORCINI COULIS. Every course in a dinner has its star and our table was unanimous in its raves for a remarkable FOIE GRAS "A LA PLANCHA" paired with CARAMELIZED PEARS, TOASTED HAZELNUTS and a sprinkling of SPAGHETTI SQUASH
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Poulet Roti “Avellino,” with braised cannellini beans and kale, tomato confit, lardons and vin cotto jus
Bread is excellent and gives a a needed moment’s rest. before such impeccable entrees as an ethereal BUTTER POACHED LOBSTER & BASS combo surrounded by CELERY ROOT-APPLE "SLAW" & LEEK FONDUE and kissed by an amazing SAUCE AMÉRICAINE. If meat is your partner of the evening, go for the LAMB CHOP & LAMB SHANK CRÉPINETTE (sort of a sausage. encased in fat), BROCCOLI RABE, SWEET POTATOES, FENNEL-LAMB SAUSAGE and ROSEMARY JUS: a wow of a preparation.
Jeff Sytsma’s desserts are as outstanding as the preceding. We adored such really fun plays as POPCORN “CRÈME BRÛLÉE” and CANDIED HONEY CRISP APPLES, CARAMEL POPCORN on SALTY CARAMEL ICE CREAM. Other options include a dense WARM CHOCOLATE TOURTE with CONCORD GRAPE GEL, PEANUT BUTTER POWDER and VANILLA ICE CREAM or a beautiful ARTISANAL CHEESE PLATE with HOUSE MADE BREAD AND JAM. Linger with an after dinner drink and enjoy terrific cookies, candies and closing goodies.
Tourte Caprese
La Silhouette is a restaurant to savor, treasure and enjoy. A little bit of France off 9th Avenue, with a lot of heart and Yes Virginia . . . civilized dining is alive and well. Santé!
Charming Owners: Sally Chironis and Tito Rahman.
Copyright 2012 By Punchin International. All Rights Reserved.
