Sunday, June 13, 2010

Classic and Signature Tapas At El Porron: Una Tasca Moderna

porron wine

El Porron is located at 1123 First Avenue at 61st Street and is open for lunch and dinner on Sunday to Thursday from 12 PM – 11PM and on Friday to Saturday from 12 PM – 12AM. For reservations, please call 212-207-8349.

 

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Authentic Spanish Cuisine Hits The Upper East Side

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If you’ve never used a porron before, just look at the exuberant how-to photos lining the walls of El Porron, This amazing Spanish Tasca. The latest project by Gonzalo “Mr. G” Bermeo of Long Island City’s much-loved El Boqueron,

An ode to the Catalan blown-glass vessel that pours wine through a point spout that leads directly into your mouth, El Porron is decidedly a family affair, conceived by Mr. G with his son and front-of-house director, Diego (an astonishing knowledgeable and professional young man) and executed with the teamwork of his Poconos-based restaurateur brother, Mario. porron 2interior%202

The Sparklingly Attractive Dining Room (Above) Supports Fine Dining in the True Sense of the Word

At the heart of its mission, El Porron aims to recreate the best of Spain’s culinary and cultural offerings, all from its brick-walled, contemporarily outfitted slice of the Upper East Side. After traveling their native Spain extensively, Mr. G and Diego broke down their experiences and translated them to a New York state of mind: an endless array of Spanish wine bottles lining the restaurant’s shelves and bar, There are lovely flowers, comfortable banquettes, and terrific lighting. Service is warm and helpful.

Regional dishes to exemplify the country’s broad offerings, and a meticulous sense of authenticity and pride in developing the menu and wine list’s unconventional offerings. Don’t let the reasonable prices deceive you. El Porron is a class act.

A night at El Porron may start with cold tapas, then hot—stay for entrees and paella or a linger longer for a flight of Spanish wines and sangrias.

Open the appetite with the Escalibada al Estilo de la Abuela, a cold salad of roasted eggplant, red peppers, sweet onions and salted cod, all with a lightly pickled flavor at once sweet, tangy, and refreshing. Queso manchego con membrillo kicks up a classic combo of cheese and quince by piling it onto raisin pecan bread—a sweet and salty number with real pizzazz. porron calamares%20al%20ajillo

Hot tapas benefit from Mr. G’s love affair with sauces. A best-seller of calamares al ajillo (Above) sounds no different from other versions until it arrives at the table: whole, pillowy tubules of fresh baby squid redolent of the white wine and garlic flavors that explode on the palette with unusual brightness. It’s impossible to resist sopping up the briny, spicy wine sauce with the bread alongside. Pulpo a la Gallega, a traditional dish from Galicia, is equally addicting, with sliced chunks of tender octopus, spicy and sweet, slathered in a sauce of house-made Spanish pimenton and Mediterranean sea salt.

Those who prefer dishes from the land—admittedly a minority in Spain—will find good company at El Porron, where traditional albondigas de ternera, or veal meatballs, are among the best that the city has to offer. Impossibly tender with the crunch of slivered almonds atop, they’re served in a clay dish filled with the leek, carrot, celery and tomato stew that gives them their delicately balanced flavor.

A baby Lamb Chop (special) was available in both tapas or entree portion ($15 or $28). It was tender and succulent. Let’s hope it becomes a regular.

Some favorites can be ordered as tapas portions or entrees, such as the Vieras con Tocino, or bacon-topped scallops—a Navarran classic. Covered in a bacon crumble rather than getting the more typical wrap-around treatment, they’re a delicate pleasure served in a velvety white asparagus sauce whose earthiness makes an unexpected pair for the mostly oceanic flavors. Also a surprise? The grilled tiger shrimp, or gambas a la plancha—they traditionally eat the shells in Spain, which explains the amazing concentration of sweetly charred flavor on their crispy exterior.

Heartier entrees include a Pollo con Pisto—the Spanish take on ratatouille—with eggplant, zucchini, yellow squash and onion atop a juicy portion of grilled chicken breast. Salmon Fresco a la Plancha makes for a lovely summertime treat as well: the farm-raised catch gets a pick-me-up from a citrus-berry reduction to contrast its natural fishiness.

Adventurous souls must order the Mollejas Al Espuma De Cava Y Ajo * crispy sauteed sweetbreads in a garlic & cava reduction, served over julienned seasonal roasted vegetables and the miraculous Callos Madrilenos mildly spicy stew of braised tripe, chorizo, pig's feet, morcillo & assorted traditional meats-a madrid classic that puts the French version to shame.

The whole spread can be washed down with a bottle of wine or a few glasses apiece—either way, the all-Spanish list contains an abundance of rare varietals that aren’t to be missed. Txakolina is a Basque favorite—an up-and-coming, hard-to-find effervescent wine that’s drunk as commonly as water abroad. Albarino, a grape whose popularity is just starting to climb here in the States, comes in three varieties at El Porron, making for a fascinating tasting flight by the glass. Prefer more traditional Spanish reds like Tempranillo, Rioja, or Garnacha? They’re all on the list, available by the bottle or the glass, hand-picked by Diego after extensive tasting throughout Spain’s best vineyards. (Check out Monastrell (Mourvedre) hails from Yecla, a small and rather obscure wine region in Southeastern Spain, near Jumilla. Very dark reddish-purple in color, it shows almost a bluish cast and an off-beat white, incorporating a blend of five local grapes, producing a sprightly and engaging food companion.

Whichever route you go, save room for dessert, which, in keeping with the theme, brings some of Spain’s less-exported traditions stateside. Favorites include the Flan de Mocca, a coffee-infused flan made with Colombian coffee, and the Torrejas, or strips of French toast soaked in Rioja and caramelized to a brulee-like exterior.

It’s all executed by Mr. G himself, drawing on his 25+ years in the business beginning at El Cid and most recently culminating at El Boqueron, where the influences of his once-mentor Clemente Boscos and other notable Spanish chefs earned him his reputation as a tapas authority in his own right. The emphasis is on sauces that amplify the scope of traditional tapas preparations, making them more exotic, exciting, and compelling as a whole

One of the few restaurants in this area of town that dares to break the tried-and-true Italian mold, El Porron brings serious Spanish food and wine to lucky residents of the upper east side and lays claim to being the finest Spanish kitchen in New York City.

porron torrejas

Torrejas, or strips of French toast soaked in Rioja (Above)

Copyright 2010 By Punch In International. All Rights Reserved.

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Sample Menu (Subject to Change)
Cold Tapas

Boquerones Al Vinagre De Jerez fresh anchovy fillets marinated in a sherry wine vinegar & served atop sliced artisanal bread
8.00

Mejillones A La Vinagreta De Chardonnay fresh mussels in a chardonnay vinaigrette
7.00

Escalibada Al Estilo De La Abuela traditional homestyle salad of roasted eggplant, red peppers, sweet onions & salted cod
9.00

Esparragos Blancos A La Vinagreta De Chardonnay navarra white asparagus spears in a chardonnay vinaigrette with a hint of lemon
9.00

Corazones De Alcachofas A La Vinagreta De Chardonnay fresh spanish artichoke hearts in a vinaigrette or crisp white wine & extra virgin olive oil
7.00

Ensaladilla De Patata Y Atun spanish style salad of potatoes, carrots, green peas & chunks of albacore tuna in fresh homemade mayo
7.00

Ensalada Mixta Al Aroma De Sidra fresh salad of mixed mesclun greens, fresh sliced tomatoes & endives in an asturian cider vinaigrette
8.00

Tortilla Espanola classic hearty golden 'omelette' made with farm-fresh eggs, sliced potatoes & sweet onions
6.00

Jamon Serrano thin slices of dry-cured spanish country ham served with toasted garlic bread & fresh tomato
11.00

Queso Manchego Con Membrillo cave-aged spanish sheep milk cheese served with raisin pecan bread & authentic spanish quince pasta
8.00

Hot Tapas

Codorniz Asada Con Salsa De Frutas roasted quail in a fig & raisin sauce, served with crispy homemade spanish potato chips
11.00

Pulpo A La Gallega octopus prepared with extra virgin olive oil, a hint of red wine vinegar, spanish 'pimenton' paprika & mediterranean sea salt
12.00

Gambas Al Ajillo fresh tiger shrimp sauteed in garlic, extra virgin olive oil & albarino white wine sauce-served sizzling in an authentic ceramic cazuela
9.00

Gambas A La Plancha Con Sal Gorda whole grilled tiger shrimp with coarse mediterranean sea salt
10.00

Sardinas A La Plancha Con Sal Gorda fresh whole sardines grilled with coarse mediterranean sea salt
9.00

Vieras Con Tocino En Salsa Deesparragos * pan-seared sea scallops, sprinkled with crispy bacon bits, garlic & bread crumbs, served in a velvety white asparagus sauce
12.00

Almejas Marineras littleneck clams baked in a mildly spicy tomato & herb sauce
9.00

Salmon Fresco A La Plancha Con Salsa Citrica fresh farm-raised salmon, grilled & served in a citrus-berry reduction
9.00

Calamares Al Ajillo (Chipirones) * fresh whole baby squid, grilled in a mildly spicy garlic, olive oil & white wine sauce
9.00

Pimientos Del Piquillo roasted navarra red peppers & asparagus in silky, mild sweet pepper sauce
11.00

Puerros Del Monasterio Con Setas Variadas * fresh leeks, boiled & served with a blend of sauteed wild mushrooms
11.00

Setas Variadas fresh shiitake oyster & crimini mushrooms sauteed in garlic sauce
10.00

Croquetas De Pollo crunchy chicken breast croquettes served with a tangy homemade tomato sauce
7.00

Pollo Con Pisto grilled chicken breast served with a classic spanish ratatouille of eggplant, zucchini, yellow squash, tomato & onion
8.00

Mollejas Al Espuma De Cava Y Ajo * crispy sauteed sweetbreads in a garlic & cava reduction, served over julienned seasonal roasted vegetables
11.00

Albondigas De Ternera tender spanish veal meatballs simmered in a leek carrot, celery & tomato stew, garnished with slivered almonds
9.00

Chorizos Al Vino De Rioja sauteed spanish chorizo sausage in a rioja wine reduction, served sizzling in an authentic cazuela
8.00

Callos Madrilenos mildly spicy stew of braised tripe, chorizo, pig's feet, morcillo & assorted traditional meats-a madrid classic
9.00

Paella

Kindly Note: As All Our Paellas Are Prepared In The Traditional Manner "From Scratch". Please Be Advised That Preparation Time Is 30-40 Minutes

Paella Valenciana saffron rice with chicken, veal, spanish chorizo, bell peppers, green peas, onions, monkfish & assorted fresh seafood
23.00

Paella Marinera saffron rice with fresh mussels, squid, clams, bay scallops, monkfish, bell peppers, green peas & onions
26.00

Paella Vegetariana saffron rice with an assortment of fresh seasonal vegetables
19.00

Fish & Shellfish Entrees

Vieras Con Tocino En Salsa De Esparragos Blancos pan-seared sea scallops, sprinkled with crispy bacon bits, garlic & breadcrumbs, served in a variety white asparagus sauce
24.00

Gambas Al Ajillo fresh tiger shrimp sauteed in garlic, extra virgin olive oil & albarino white wine sauce, served with julienned seasonal vegetables
21.00

Gambas Con Salsa Verde sauteed tiger shrimp prepared with traditional basque sauce of fresh parsley, spanish onion & garlic
21.00

Salmon Fresco A La Plancha Con Salsa Citrica fresh farm-raised salmon, grilled & served in a citrus berry reduction, presented with julienned seasonal vegetables
19.00

Bacalao A La Vizcaina basque-style salted cod baked in a sweet red pepper & garlic sauce, served with potatoes, sliced red peppers & seasoned white rice
26.00

Langosta Al Gusto fresh lobster tail, prepared & seasoned to your liking (broiled or steamed, in white wine & garlic or green parsley sauce). served with crispy homemade potato chips

Meat & Poultry Entrees

Pollo Al Ajillo tender chicken breast strips sauteed in garlic, extra virgin olive oil & albarino white wine sauce, served with homemade thick-cut french-fried potatoes & julienne seasonal vegetables
18.00

Pollo Con Pisto grilled chicken breast served with classic spanish ratatouille of eggplant, zucchini, yellow squash, tomato & onion
18.00

Ternera Con Setas Silvestres Al Aroma De Jerez veal with sauteed wild mushrooms over a reduction of oloroso sherry, served with julienned seasonal vegetables
27.00

Solomillo De Cochinillo Adobado grilled pork tenderloin, marinated in herbs & served in a tomato mushroom brandy sauce, presented with assorted seasonal vegetables
24.00

Solomillo De Vaca A La Pimienta Verde filet mignon in a light, herbed green peppercorn sauce, served with homemade thick-cut french-fried potatoes & julienned vegetables

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